Film is indissociable from the narratives carried by clothes and costumes. Throughout their careers, great filmmakers and artists have maintained intense and productive collaborations with important costume designers and fashion designers, creating dialogues in which the device of clothing contributed decisively to the development of their cinematic language, as well as to visual trends that have defined modern and contemporary culture. Fashion and dressing as themes in themselves have also been central to films that have left a profound mark on cinema.
On-dressing considers the codes of apparel and its intimate connection to actions of exposure and concealment of identities, visibility and invisibility of people, and the vibrant expression of communities who use ideas about dressing as a starting point for aesthetic creativity, contesting the status quo and reclaiming their rights.
Each introduced by short exercises about fashion, the ten screenings aim to illustrate the importance of wardrobe in the construction of film genres (from horror to period drama), the work of designers whose creations have left an indelible mark on a number of filmographies (such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Yohji Yamamoto and Emi Wada), and the way that clothing is used to express conflicts — between traditions, customs and cultures. From the beautiful to the frivolous, the market and the art world, we will reveal the tensions that fashion entails, as well as how its development allows us to sound out, with particular clarity, the ongoing metamorphosis of our ways of life.
Curated by Guilherme Blanc, Hanayrá Negreiros and João Sousa Cardoso.
Curatorial support by Sofia Lemos Marques.
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Film is indissociable from the narratives carried by clothes and costumes. Throughout their careers, great filmmakers and artists have maintained intense and productive collaborations with important costume designers and fashion designers, creating dialogues in which the device of clothing contributed decisively to the development of their cinematic language, as well as to visual trends that have defined modern and contemporary culture. Fashion and dressing as themes in themselves have also been central to films that have left a profound mark on cinema.
On-dressing considers the codes of apparel and its intimate connection to actions of exposure and concealment of identities, visibility and invisibility of people, and the vibrant expression of communities who use ideas about dressing as a starting point for aesthetic creativity, contesting the status quo and reclaiming their rights.
Each introduced by short exercises about fashion, the ten screenings aim to illustrate the importance of wardrobe in the construction of film genres (from horror to period drama), the work of designers whose creations have left an indelible mark on a number of filmographies (such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Yohji Yamamoto and Emi Wada), and the way that clothing is used to express conflicts — between traditions, customs and cultures. From the beautiful to the frivolous, the market and the art world, we will reveal the tensions that fashion entails, as well as how its development allows us to sound out, with particular clarity, the ongoing metamorphosis of our ways of life.
Curated by Guilherme Blanc, Hanayrá Negreiros and João Sousa Cardoso.
Curatorial support by Sofia Lemos Marques.
Hanayrá Negreiros
A fashion researcher and curator, Hanayrá Negreiros develops research centred on the history of dressing in the African diaspora in Brazil, with a special interest in curatorial practices, photography and Afro-Brazilian cultures. She curated the exhibition Indumentárias Negras em Foco at the Instituto Moreira Salles in São Paulo in partnership with Instituto Feira Preta, she also wrote the column “Negras Maneiras” on fashion and black ancestry for ELLE Brasil and was assistant curator of fashion at the do Museu de Arte de São Paulo Assis Chateaubriand — MASP. She is currently studying for a PhD in History at PUC-SP.
João Sousa Cardoso
Artist and teacher with a PhD in Social Sciences from the University of Paris Descartes (Sorbonne). He directed the films Baal (2013), A Ronda da Noite (2013), A Santa Joana dos Matadouros (2014) and, with André Sousa, Na Selva das Cidades (2016). He created Sequências Narrativas Completas at the Teatro Nacional D. Maria II in Lisbon in 2019. In 2020, he published the books Sequências Narrativas Completas and A Espanha das Espanhas. He teaches at Universidade Lusófona. He regularly writes essays for Contemporânea magazine and Público newspaper.
Full programme
Le défilé, Marc Caro, 1987
The Cook, the Thief, His Wife & Her Lover, Peter Greenaway, 1989
Joy, Samona Olanipekum, 2020
Ôrí, Raquel Gerber, 1989
Unity is Strength, Akinola Davies Jr., 2017
Touki Bouki, Djibril Diop Mambéty, 1973
Breakfast at Tiffany's, Blake Edwards, 1961, 115'
Act da Fool, Harmony Korine, 2018
Jubilee, Derek Jarman, 1978
Keller-Dorian : Film gaufré : Sonia Delaunay, Albert Keller-Dorian, 1925
Qui êtes-vous, Polly Maggoo, William Klein, 1966
Marée Noire, Actual Objects, 2020
Teknolust, Lynn Hershman-Leeson, 2002
Mar de Dirac, Monica Lek, 2022
Vanitas, Paulo Rocha, 2004
Missoni, Kenneth Anger, 2010
Shrines, Jacolby Satterwhite, 2020
Scorpio Rising, Kenneth Anger, 1964
Nothing Really Matters (Madonna), Johan Renck, 1988
Ran, Akira Kurosawa, 1985
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